How to Build the SNAA Nether Emperor FA Type: Tips for Third Party 1/100 Kits

Quick Answer

Building the SNAA Nether Emperor FA Type is a rewarding project if you prepare properly. Start by sorting and cleaning parts, dry-fit the inner frame, and assemble in sub-sections. Take your time with the FA (Full Armor) add-ons and use gentle force to avoid stress marks.

The SNAA Nether Emperor FA Type is a striking third party 1/100 kit that offers a detailed build experience. While it shares some similarities with other large-scale kits, its unique design and Full Armor loadout require a slightly different approach. This guide walks you through the entire process, from unboxing to final display.

Third party kits often demand a bit more care than official Bandai releases. Parts may have tighter tolerances, and the plastic can be harder or more brittle. But with the right techniques, you can achieve a result that looks just as sharp as any premium kit. Let's get started.

Before You Start: Tools and Workspace

Gather your essentials: a good pair of nippers, a hobby knife, sanding sticks or files, and a cutting mat. A glass file can save time on nub cleanup, but regular sandpaper works too. You'll also want a small screwdriver if the kit includes any metal screws, and tweezers for small parts.

Set up a clean, well-lit workspace. Organize runners by number and keep a parts tray nearby. Since third party kits sometimes have parts that look similar, sorting them before assembly reduces the risk of using the wrong piece. Check the manual carefully—some steps may have revised part numbers or corrections.

• Use a side cutter to avoid stressing the plastic, and cut away from the part, leaving a small nub to trim later.
• Keep a damp cloth or paper towel handy to wipe off dust and plastic shavings as you work.

Cleaning and Prepping Parts

Third party kits often have more visible mold lines and nubs than Bandai kits. Take time to clean each part before assembly. Use a hobby knife to shave down nubs, then sand with 400 to 800 grit for a smooth finish. For tight-fitting joints, sand the peg slightly to avoid forcing parts together.

Wash the runners in warm soapy water if the plastic feels oily or dusty. This is especially important if you plan to paint. Dry thoroughly before assembly. A clean surface also helps decals and stickers adhere better later.

• Do not skip cleaning the inner frame parts—dirt can cause squeaky or loose joints.
• Use a parts separator tool to safely disassemble if you make a mistake; prying with a knife can damage plastic.

Dry-Fitting the Inner Frame

Before gluing or finalizing any joint, dry-fit the inner frame. This means assembling the major limbs without applying any adhesive. Check the range of motion and see if any parts bind. If a joint is too tight, sand the peg or hole slightly. If it's too loose, you can add a drop of super glue or use a layer of clear nail polish to thicken the peg.

Dry-fitting also reveals any alignment issues early. Third party kits sometimes have parts that don't line up perfectly. By testing now, you avoid having to force parts apart later, which can break fragile details. Once you're satisfied, disassemble and proceed to final assembly.

• Mark parts with a small dot of paint if you need to remember orientation after disassembly.
• Keep a small file handy to adjust holes that are slightly undersized.

Assembling the Full Armor Add-Ons

The FA Type includes additional armor and weapons that give the kit its imposing silhouette. Assemble these in sub-sections, such as shoulder armor, backpack, and weapon systems. Follow the manual's order, but don't be afraid to deviate if a step feels unstable. For example, you might attach the backpack to the torso before adding the arms to make it easier to handle.

Pay attention to the connection points. Some FA parts clip onto existing armor, and the fit can be tight. Use a small amount of force, but never force a piece if it resists—check for obstructions or reversed parts. A little sanding on the connector tabs can make the fit smoother.

• Test the balance of the kit with the FA parts attached. If it tends to lean backward, you may need to tighten the hip joints or use a base.
• Keep the FA parts separate until the main body is fully assembled and posed.

Finishing Touches: Decals and Panel Lining

Once the kit is assembled, it's time for detailing. Panel lining with a fine-tip marker or enamel wash adds depth to the surface. Apply the lining before decals to avoid smudging. Clean up any excess with a cotton swab dipped in lighter fluid or a dedicated cleaner.

For decals, use the provided stickers or water slides if included. Apply them carefully with tweezers. If you're using water slides, soak them briefly and slide them into place, then press out air bubbles with a cotton swab. A coat of matte topcoat can seal the decals and give the kit a more uniform finish.

• Test your panel liner on a spare runner to see how it reacts with the plastic.
• Use a soft cloth to wipe off any fingerprints before applying topcoat.

Step-by-Step Build Checklist

1. Sort and Clean Parts: Cut all parts from runners, clean nubs, and wash in soapy water. Organize by runner number in a parts tray. Checkpoint: You can identify every part and its location in the manual before starting assembly.
2. Dry-Fit the Inner Frame: Assemble the skeleton without adhesive. Test joint tightness and range of motion. Sand pegs that are too tight, and add a layer of clear polish to loose pegs. Checkpoint: The inner frame can hold a pose without falling apart, and all joints move smoothly.
3. Assemble Main Body Sub-Sections: Build the torso, head, arms, and legs separately. Attach the head last to avoid damage. Use gentle force and check alignment before pressing parts fully together. Checkpoint: Each sub-section is complete and can be posed individually without stress marks.
4. Add Full Armor and Weapons: Attach the FA add-ons in the order suggested by the manual. Test the balance and adjust joints if needed. Use a base if the kit is top-heavy. Checkpoint: The kit stands on its own or on a base without leaning, and all weapons attach securely.
5. Panel Line and Apply Decals: Use a fine marker or enamel wash for panel lines. Apply decals with tweezers, and seal with a matte topcoat. Checkpoint: The surface looks clean, and decals are flat and free of bubbles.

Related Kits and Alternatives

• Pianxin Model 1/100 MGEX Strike Freedom Gundam Midnight Coating Version Model kit (Third Party, Not Original Bandai Kit): This is a third party kit, not an original Bandai product. It includes 2 beam rifles, 2 beam sabers, hand assembly type, 2 humanoid types (Kira Yamato, Lux Klein), a movable base, 2 pet stickers for the beam shield, a sticker for the base, water sticker, etched sheet sticker, metal 3D sticker, and a paper folding panel storage rack. Material: ABS, Scale: 1/100. If you enjoy the SNAA Nether Emperor FA Type's detailed build, this kit offers a similar level of complexity with unique features like the movable base and humanoid figures. The included metal 3D stickers can add a premium touch to your display.
• [With Wing of Light] Changlong 7701 1/100 MGEX Strike Freedom Gundam Twilight Coating Version Model kit (Third Party, Not Original Bandai Kit): Another third party kit, this one includes 2 beam rifles, 2 beam sabers, hand assembly type, 2 humanoid types (Kira Yamato, Lux Klein), a movable base, 2 pet stickers for the beam shield, a sticker for the base, water sticker, etched sheet sticker, metal 3D sticker, and a paper folding panel storage rack. Material: ABS, Scale: 1/100. The Twilight Coating finish gives the kit a different aesthetic, and the included wing of light effect parts can be a fun addition if you like dramatic displays. This kit can be a good companion to your Nether Emperor for a varied collection.

Building the SNAA Nether Emperor FA Type is a satisfying project that rewards patience and careful technique. By following these steps, you'll avoid common pitfalls and end up with a display-ready kit that looks great on your shelf. Enjoy the build!